以服饰之源 展文化大美——香格里拉彭松措民族服饰有限公司打造本土传统服饰品牌的故事

来源:香格里拉网 作者:黄晓丽 发布时间:2019-08-08 11:15:10

在2017年迪庆藏族自治州成立60周年庆典盛会上,一组被称作“香格里拉土豪装”的传统藏民族服饰引来众人围观。这组服饰出自香格里拉彭松措民族服饰有限公司。

该公司总经理培楚说,这组服饰是上世纪三四十年代藏区土司贵族盛装,后来不知去向。2011年,一个偶然的机会,培楚在一个藏民家里发现了其中一件坎肩,它的制作手工和花纹引起了培楚的极大兴趣。培楚就开始四处走访探寻,向村民收集土司服饰的“碎片”并仿制还原。经过大量的资料考查和细节研究,2017年,完整的土司服饰得以再次亮相。



▲ 高雅、精美的藏民族服饰。


▲ 彭松措民族服饰有限公司负责人介绍服饰特点。


培楚对藏文化颇有研究,从1996年起从事藏族服饰经营,2012年正式成立香格里拉彭松措民族服饰有限公司,走上了打响香格里拉本土藏民族传统服饰品牌的道路。如今,走进公司的店铺,全州范围内的藏族服饰囊括其中,从群众传统的生活装到结婚、庆典等重大场合的盛装,从尼西情舞的毡帽到建塘锅庄的披肩,应有尽有。从丝绸到氆氇,各种材质、不同花色的布料陈列在橱柜中供客人选择,制作上乘、款式大气的服装成品令人目不暇接。培楚说,店里服饰和首饰多是根据客人的喜好量身定做的。从颜色搭配、花纹、材质、做工的不同,做出的服装种类有上百种。

为了让更多人喜欢和接受香格里拉民族服饰,培楚开始在传统服饰中融入现代时尚元素,创新服饰设计,并到上海、深圳、昆明等地参加服装展览、赛装节等活动。在2019年丝路云裳·七彩云南民族赛装文化节民族服装服饰设计大赛上,公司参赛的两件藏元素服饰获“十佳传统民族服装服饰”、“十佳创意民族服装服饰”荣誉。“在各地参加展览,很多人对我们带去的服装很感兴趣,有的人一次会买上两三套。当我在上海看到广场上跳舞的市民穿着我设计制作的藏族服装时,又惊讶又欣慰,让全国各地的同胞喜欢、接受藏族服饰正是我所希望的。”培楚高兴地说。

“创新是在本土文化的基础上进行的,香格里拉藏族服饰很有特色,有别于其他藏区。”培楚说,“多年来,我坚持学习香格里拉藏民族文化,向老人们了解传统技艺,将所见所学融入服装设计中。为了让服装更柔软舒适、不易变形,我着手改良布料,特意选用优质的羊绒、丝质面料,加上自己设计的独特花纹和配色,成为‘彭松措’的原创。通过不断传承弘扬民族文化和工艺,充分借鉴时尚服饰元素和现代生产技术,公司的服装数量、款式、质量、档次都远超过去。这些服装服饰传递着藏族群众的审美情趣和民族情感,表达了对美好生活的向往和憧憬。”


责任编辑:张锦明
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